Bike Maintenance Tips

If you swap your chain every 500km, you could extend the lifespan of your casette by up to 3X.

A dirty chain wears out faster and affects shifting. Clean it every 200-300km or after wet rides. Use a degreaser, scrub with a brush, rinse, dry, and re-lube.

A stretched chain damages your cassette and chainrings. Use a chain checker tool — replace at 0.5% wear for 11/12-speed, 0.75% for 10-speed and below.

Apply lube to each link while rotating the pedals backwards. Wipe off excess with a clean rag. Too much lube attracts dirt; too little causes wear.

Look for shark-fin shaped teeth — this means they're worn. Worn teeth cause skipping and poor shifting. Replace before they damage your new chain.

Inspect pads for wear indicators. Rim brake pads have grooves that disappear when worn. Disc pads should have at least 1mm of material remaining.

Spongy lever feel means air in the system. Bleed your brakes to restore firm, consistent braking. Use the correct fluid — DOT or mineral oil depending on your system.

Contaminated rotors cause squealing and reduced stopping power. Clean with isopropyl alcohol and a clean cloth. Never touch the braking surface with your fingers.

For cable brakes, ensure cables are tight and not frayed. Adjust barrel adjusters to take up slack. Replace cables if you see any fraying or rust.

Wipe down fork stanchions and shock shafts with a clean, damp cloth. This removes dirt that can damage seals and scratch the surface.

Proper sag (typically 25-30% for trail riding) ensures optimal performance. Check with a shock pump and adjust air pressure as needed.

Change the oil in your fork lowers to keep bushings lubricated and seals supple. This prevents stiction and extends seal life.

Internal seals, oil, and nitrogen charge need professional attention. Book a full service to maintain damping performance and prevent expensive damage.

Correct pressure improves grip, rolling resistance, and puncture protection. Check before every ride. Tubeless tyres lose pressure faster than tubed.

Look for cuts, embedded debris, and worn knobs. Small cuts can be plugged; larger damage means it's time for new tyres.

Sealant dries out over time and loses effectiveness. Remove the valve core, inject fresh sealant, and spin the wheel to distribute evenly.

Squeeze pairs of spokes — they should all feel similar. Loose spokes cause wheel flex and can lead to broken spokes or buckled rims.

Apply front brake and rock the bike forward and back. Clunking indicates loose headset bearings. Tighten or replace before they damage the frame.

Remove the chain and spin the cranks. Grinding, clicking, or roughness means the BB bearings need attention. Don't ignore creaking!

Check for smooth rotation and side-to-side play. Ratchet engagement should be crisp. Service or replace bearings when you feel roughness.

Rear suspension pivots take a beating. Check for play and creaking. Keep them greased and replace bearings before they damage the frame.

Use low-pressure water, bike-specific cleaner, and soft brushes. Avoid direct spray on bearings and seals. Dry thoroughly and re-lube the chain.

Use a torque wrench for critical fasteners — stem, seatpost clamp, brake mounts, and thru-axles. Check manufacturer specs; over-tightening damages carbon.

Look for cracks around welds (alloy), tube junctions, and high-stress areas. Small cracks grow — catch them early before catastrophic failure.

Keep out of direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. Hang or stand upright. Release brake pressure if storing for extended periods.